Rinat Brodach's Fall/Winter 2017 collection, which debuted February 9, was supposedly inspired by "the spirit of a fighter," a sensibility which echoed through the powerful but understated looks. Though the clothes were fairly minimalist, utilizing a neutral black/white/grey palette with touches of peach and blue, the tone of the show was a quiet storm.

Models' hair was slicked back sharply, and some wore a splotch of terracotta-pinkish dye at the roots. All wore chunky Doc Marten boots and intense makeup, often with bleached brows (bleached facial hair on the male models) and dramatically bronzed skin that, probably by no accident, resembled armor.

Courtesy of Supreme Publicity

Courtesy of Supreme Publicity

Some of the standout pieces, in fact, were the prints, especially one oversized shirtdress in a white and black abstract pattern. But neutrals made their statement as well, through structure: shirts with wide necks and unfinished hems in athletic fabric, dresses and tops with lots of excess fabric intentionally gathered in a random-looking fashion. Asymmetry was a frequent feature as well. The collection included several one-sleeve shirts and dresses with cutout shoulders; one memorable piece was a blue ankle-length sweater dress with one long sleeve, both cozy and polished.

Courtesy of Supreme Publicity

Courtesy of Supreme Publicity

The best pieces were, surprisingly, pantsuits. Slim-fit pants with big, pointy-shouldered blazers stole the show, commanding power and attention, and in fact were more structured than any of the dresses or menswear. But then again, maybe there's nothing surprising about style and command in a pantsuit at all. Not anymore.